Plaster Masks

I have been making these plaster masks with kids for a few years now.  The results are always terrific and the students have a great time applying the masks on each other.

Here are some animal masks.

Here are some Mardi Gras or Mi cereme type masks.

MATERIALS REQUIRED:

- plaster strips,  you can buy these at craft stores (Michaels) but I prefer to get them straight from the medical supplier.  I use Stevens.  Cost wise this will save you a lot of money.  You need about 18 rolls for a class of 24.  I use Gypsona Extra Fast Plaster of Paris.  7.5cm x 2.7m.  I then cut the bandages into  4 inch (10 cm) lengths and then cut each of these into strips about 3cm wide.  I cut these straight into a flat box, you will get a lot of plaster dust so cut in top of a garbage bag or drop cloth.
- containers for water
- 1 garbage bag for each pair of students
- disposable shower caps, I get these at the dollar store 10 for a dollar
- recycled cardboard, paper tubes, egg cartons
- vaseline
- drywall compound, optional
- acrylic paint
- faux fur, feathers
- embellishments
- glue gun

PROCEDURE:

This is a 3 session project

Session#1

Have the students pair up.  I give them a little talk about being respectful and gentle with their partner.

The one who is getting the mask applied puts on the shower cap.  A garbage bag is laid out on the floor.

Vaseline is applied to the face.  Use a good layer and put extra on the eyebrows.  I only do half masks with the kids so you need only apply the vaseline to the nose.

I tell the kids to avoid the eyes, think that your partner is wearing glasses or googles.  The model needs to keep their eyes closed.

They then get some plaster strips and a container with warm water.

Dip a strip into the warm water and run your fingers down it to remove excess water.  Apply to the face on the bridge of the nose forming an "X" onto the cheek.  Do this 3 times.  This will form the base of your mask.


You need to massage each strip when you apply it to get the plaster into all the holes of the bandage.  I tell the kids to think they are at the spa!  Otherwise it will not be smooth.

You want to do 3 layers of bandages everywhere.  Avoid the nostrils and eyes.

I give each model a few kleenex in their hand so they can mop up any annoying drips but eyes need to be closed.

Make sure to get those 3 layers especially on the sides and try to have no holes.  Don't worry about the edges looking pretty as you can trim them later with scissors when the mask is removed and dried.

If some plaster gets on your clothes don't worry it will wash out.


The mask will start setting up in 15 minutes.  It make get a bit warm as well as the plaster is activated.

When it is hard remove gently from face.  I find it's easiest for an adult/ teacher to remove.  I gently lift from the bottom (by the cheeks) and ease off from the rest of the face.  The eyebrows and hairline are where the mask might stick a bit.  Just take your time and slowly ease it off.
The model can then wash their face and switch places with their partner.  Repeat the process again.  It will take approximately an hour and a half to do a whole class with a switch halfway thru.

The masks can be put aside to dry.  Although firm they will still be damp and fragile.    Set aside.

Session #2

Collect some recycled cardboard, egg cartons, and paper tubes.

Take the base mask and start adding other elements.  Use more plaster strips to attach.  We also used drywall compound to fill in the holes and for texture.  You can also trim the edges of your mask with scissors.  Any extra pieces or stray edges.


Here you can see that paper tubes (toilet paper) are used for the horns,  some cereal box cardboard is used to form ears as well as the muzzle/mouth.

When you are finished adding your extra elements set aside to dry again.

Session #3

Now it's time to finish your mask.  Using acrylic paint, paint as desired.  It's best to paint the background colours first and then add the small details.


Using a glue gun attach feathers or faux fur.  You can also add other embellishments like gems, beads, or sequins.

When the mask has dried you can poke a hole on each side by the eye using an awl or sharp point of a pair of scissors.  Attach string or cord for tying.

That's it.  A great art experience your students will never forget!

I'm off to my Maui again for Easter break.  I'm looking forward to reading, sketching, and lots of painting.


I hope to send you a few blog postcards in the coming weeks.

Have a great Easter everyone and aloha!

How to make a Christmas Angel

I have another post for the Hive today on how to make this great Angel using Activa's Rigid Wrap.

You can check it out here:

Christmas Angel

Last Friday was our Christmas craft Day at school.  A big thank-you goes out to all Moms, Dads, Grandmas and Grandpas who helped!

I really appreciate it and we could not do it without you.

I'll have another post for you tomorrow.......here is a sneak peek.  That second set of Christmas inchies, finally!






See you then.

Plaster Leaf Prints

Here is a plaster leaf print project that is very easy to do with dramatic results.  I posted a similar one 2 years ago, Salt Dough Leaf Prints.

With plaster the results are very quick and you don't have to bake them for 2 hours.

Grade 6 cast their prints today and I have a troop of Cubs completing their prints tonight.





ooooh such Fall loveliness!


Don't let plaster work intimidate you it's really pretty easy once you get the hang of it.






MATERIALS REQUIRED:

- small squares of Burlap
- Plaster of Paris, (I buy mine at the Hardware store by the carton or the bag)
- old yogurt container for mixing, or 2 , or 3,
- stick or old spoon, I use a chopstick
- newspaper
- water
- a really nice leaf, not dried out but still pliable
- some acrylic paint in Fall colors
- Mod Podge,  acrylic medium, or white school glue

PROCEDURE:

Gather up all your supplies.

Cover you work space with an old vinyl tablecloth, art board, or newspaper.

If your leaf is thin and tears easily it might be a good idea to apply a thin coat of Vaseline on the back of the leaf.  This will ensure it releases from the plaster.

I use an old yogurt container for mixing my plaster.  After I mix and pour I let the excess set in the container and then crunch the container a little.  The old plaster just flakes off and I can then throw it out and reuse the container for the next plaster project.

If you are pouring for a class or making alot of these have several containers so you can continue to mix and pour while the excess plaster is setting up in the previous container.

Lay out some newspaper.  Put down your squares of burlap.


Have your leaves at the ready.


At school I did this with small groups calling up 4 kids at a time.  The rest of the class worked on painting Frescoes.

If you have never used plaster before do a little test batch to get your feet wet.

Mix up a small amount of plaster.  I use a disposable drink cup to pour the dry plaster into the container and then add your water.  It's 2 parts plaster to 1 part water but to be honest I don't measure any more.  You'll learn to get the feel of it as you go.

Mix frantically to get it nice and smooth.  It will be like thick buttermilk in consistency....keep mixing when it becomes like yogurt start pouring.

Pour out onto the burlap.  Pour out the 4 or so you are doing and then go right back and shimmy the burlap a bit to flatten it and release the air bubbles.

Place your leaves into the plaster.  You want them face up with the veins and texture side on the plaster.


Using your fingertips lightly press those edges down and make sure the whole back surface is touching the plaster.

See here is a leaf cast where a portion of the leaf wasn't touching leaving that gap.

Let the plaster set up for about 10 - 15 minutes and then peel back the leaf to reveal the print.

If some leaf bits remain just go back and take them out.

Here are the Grade 6 prints in process.


Let your plaster set up fully.  Let it dry for a day or so.

Fray the edges of your burlap a bit for a nice look.

Now you might just want to leave it white but if you want to add a paint wash you need to coat the cast with a thin coat of Mod Podge or acrylic medium first.  You could even use a thin coat of white school glue if need be.

Plaster absorbs paint like crazy, in order to get that nice wash effect you need to put in that sealer first.

Let dry.

Put a little bit of acrylic paint on your palette.  Add some water to thin it out and then paint in where the leaf left it's imprint.


If you make a mistake just rub away the paint with a moist paper towel and try again.....that's the great thing about having that sealer coat.

That's it.  A great Fall accent for your home .

Give it a try and I'll see you next time!

How to Make Plaster Frescoes

Frescoes have been around for a long time in the art world.  We are all familiar with Michelangelo's Sistine Chapel but frescoes were around long before that.

The earliest evidence of the "wet plaster" fresco technique dates back to 2000 - 1550 BC or the Middle Bronze age. 

You can easily reproduce this technique in the classroom. 

Sand Casts

After a few beach vacations it seems we have baggies of shells, "magic" rocks and other collectibles all over the house, time for an art project!

I took some recycled containers (we had takeout Friday) and added some sand from the sandbox.  Sift out any leaves or twigs that might interfere with your cast.

If you are doing a whole class you can also use those little Styrofoam bowls like I used for the sand candles.

I started off thinking we would do hand or foot prints but our sand was way too coarse for that.  We couldn't get a good impression so on to Plan B.

We pushed in a bowl shape but you could also form one with your hands, just digging out a form.

Then the kids started placing in their special shells, bits of sea glass and rocks.

You want to have the side you want to see facing down into the sand.

Once you have your composition the way you want it....it's time for the plaster.

Now you can pick this up at the hardware store or Wal mart.  At school I have it by the sack.  I use it to make stamps for ceramics as well as for projects like this.

You want to mix it up in an old recycled container that you will throw out when done.  I'm also using an old salad dressing cup for the measuring.

Mix well with a chopstix or old spoon.  Make sure it is nice and smooth.  You have about 20-30 minutes before it will harden.

Only mix up as much as you can deal with in that time frame.  For a class set of projects you are better to do up 2 batches than have it harden on you before you can dish it all out.

Scoop into your sand bowls carefully so you don't dislodge any of the treasures.

Let sit for an hour or so until it has really hardened up.

Remove from the sand and give it a quick scrub under the tap.

That's it......now you can use this method on your little collections!

Ryan wants to cast his rock collection but I'm going to try to get some finer sand so we can cast it in the shape of his hand.



We'll see you next time.